Perfumes without compromise

"Perfumes without compromise"

By Joffre Agnes
08/09/2008

  Editions de Parfums - Frédéric Malle

Perfume-making has become a huge industry and every creation has to find its place on it, sometimes at the expense of the art it used to be. Frédéric Mall wanted to protest against this and therefore he has decided to give back the freedom of creation to the parfumiers who get so often caught by the market line.

His idea was simple and genious at the same time: giving to the best "noses" of our time the opportunity of making for him the perfume they always wanted to create. That meant no limitations nor indications of any kind: no limitation on cost nor on material and above all any defined target market. That's why the French "perfume publisher" chose the name of "Perfumes without Compromise" for his collection, showing what he is expected to do: let perfume-making be an art again. It is also the occasion for the public to obtain access to an artists’ perfumery, created without norms or limits.

The results are magical: sixteen beautifully made, luxurious and very fine scents are nowadays on the market, from the most classical (for instance the recreation of the masterpiece of Edmond Roudnitska in the early 50's "Le Parfum de Thérèse") to more innovative pieces. All of these creations are including a high level of natural ingredients, which is very rare today.

Frédéric Malle wanted to pay hommage to these parfumers too since they are almost always hidden behind big brands. That's why the bottles are as simple as possible, almost industrial and let see only the name of the creator and of his perfume, remindind that truly fine perfumes are anything else than a work of art.

However what if the charm of a perfume was as much in the bottle design as in its content? In fact, fragrance belongs to luxury and an attractive looking bottle is generally a major requested quality to have for a perfume. Nobody is insensitive to the design of the bottle when choosing a perfume. Moreover, fragrances are often gifts as such, their quality is often judged by their bottle design and how expensive it looks? Besides let's remind that the majority of myhtical fragrances has led their marks thanks to their scents but thanks to their bottles too. That's why the perfume-makers, up until now have spent so much in their design creation. The best instance may be Shalimar, Guerlain's most successful fragrance as famous for its scent as for its remakable oriental-inspired bottle. So what do you think? Does the bottles of your perfume matter to you? What do you think about Frédéric Malle's idea of an alomst clinical lloking bottle containing such luxurious fragrances?  

Whatever, these luxurious creations are sold in a few very carefully chosen shops all around the globe... and London has the opportunity to be in the list: a boutique will open in the Liberty store in October with the possibility of having pieces of advice to make the right choice. Moreover at this occasion will be presented the new and long-awaited 17th perfume called "Dans des Bras" created by Maurice Roucel!

Frédéric Malle, Perfume Publisher